This is one to get to as soon as possible – the dual impacts of the pandemic and then the Gazan War have decimated tourist numbers and they are only just starting to recover. Home to stunning deserts, sublime scuba diving and one of the modern wonders of the world, Jordan is an essential destination for anyone seeking a Middle Eastern adventure.
Please note that these are all my personal recommendations and are not sponsored in any way.
Getting There
Amman Queen Alia International Airport is the main gateway into the country by air. Spacious and modern, it receives flights from across Europe. The national carrier, Royal Jordanian, is excellent if pricey and flies to both London Stansted and Heathrow and Manchester in the UK. There are also multiple routes across Europe and as far as the USA.
Other carriers to the UK include BA, with budget options coming from Wizz Air and Ryanair. Of all of these, Royal Jordanian is by far the best, offering a complimentary meal service and full in-flight entertainment.
The entry requirements for British citizens can be found on the FCDO website. At the time of writing, a visa is required to visit Jordan, though this can be picked up on arrival at Queen Alia Airport, with the visa cost included in the Jordan Pass (see Other Points for more information). The same appears to be true for US passport holders.
Major Destinations
Major tourist destinations within Jordan include:
- Amman, the capital city and cosmopolitan heart of Jordan
- Petra, an enormous archaeological site and a modern wonder of the world
- Aqaba, the second city on the Red Sea
- Wadi Rum, a desert in the south with stunning landscapes and night skies
- Jerash, excellent Roman ruins north of Amman
- The Dead Sea, a hotspot for resorts and a nice place to unwind
Getting Around
There are no trains to speak of in Jordan. Instead, buses cross the country. By far the best and most user-friendly of these belong to JETT. Full timetables can be found on the website and trips can be booked directly online. If you’re looking to book online from outside Jordan, you will need to use a VPN with Jordanian servers as it isn’t possible to book from abroad.
HMA VPN has a Jordanian server and offers a free trial.
Jordan is an extremely small country. The longest bus journey you’re likely to take is from Amman to Aqaba and takes four hours. Equally, Jerash, the Dead Sea and Bethany on the Jordan can easily be done as day trips from Amman.
In quite a few cases, it may be worthwhile renting a car to access parts of the country not served by regular buses. Western brands such as Europcar have a presence in Jordan. The roads are generally easy to drive on outside of Amman, though standards are occasionally ignored by some.
Two ride hailing apps operate in Jordan: Uber and Careem. Of these, Careem is probably the more reliable (despite being owned by Uber). Rides are generally cheap, costing no more than 3JD (£3, $4) for trips across town.
It is possible to fly from Amman to Aqaba, with a shuttle service operating, mainly by Royal Jordanian. However, once you’ve got from Amman to the airport and checked and so on, the bus or driving yourself will probably work out to be just as fast and much cheaper.
Accommodation
Jordan doesn’t really do hostels in a massive way, instead preferring budget hotels and guesthouses. One of the best is Nomads Hotel, with rooms in Amman and Wadi Musa (for Petra). Prices for private rooms range from around £20 to £40 per night.
If you want somewhere posher (with prices to match), Mövenpick have hotels dotted across the country. Expect to pay in excess of £100 per night.
Finally, you will need to book a tour to explore the Wadi Rum Desert. For a reasonably cheap and comfortable stay in a traditional Beduoin tent, Wild Wadi Rum is a good bet. Be aware that some of the seemingly excellent deals you can find on booking websites (£1 per night anyone?) are too good to be true – the cost of the associated tour will more than compensate for it.
Money
The currency in Jordan is the dinar, which is worth just a little more than the pound at the time of writing. Though some touristy places will take card, many places ae still cash only.
You will need to get your dinar in Jordan as the currency isn’t easily available abroad. Luckily there are many banks and ATMs across the country, though these will charge commission on withdrawals. To minimise this cost, take out larger amounts at once and avoid withdrawing near major attractions as commission rates are usually higher in touristy areas.
It may also be worth carrying some US dollars as a back up option if needed.
Other Points
The Jordan Pass is a no-brainer for anyone planning a visit to the country. Included in the pass is the cost of your entry visa, Petra entrance fees and admission to many other museums and sites. At the time of writing, the most expensive pass (offering three days in Petra) was 80JD (£84, $113). This makes it well worth it – the cost of the visa plus Petra entry is likely to be greater than this amount anyway.
The food in Jordan is generally excellent. From kebabs to some of the best houmous and falafel you’ve ever tried, streetside restaurants are the way to go across the country. Particular recommendations include Shahrazad in Amman for kebabs and Al Shami in Aqaba for its sayadieh.
If you’re looking to scuba dive in Aqaba (which is definitely worth it, with the chance to see turtles, manta rays or even whale sharks), Deep Blue Dive Centre is one of the more reputable dive schools, located in Tala Bay which is a short taxi ride south of the city. It is more expensive than some others, though has full PADI certification and a large and extremely comfortable boat.
Finally, be aware of the standards of dress in Jordan. This is a Muslim country, and so women are expected to dress modestly, with shorts and sleeveles or revealing tops frowned upon everywhere apart from possibly Amman. For men, things are much more relaxed, with many men wandering Aqaba’s beaches topless during the summer holidays. If you are a woman and want to swim, find a private beach club or resort rather than using a public beach.
Into The Elsewhere 