Up until quite recently, nobody would have dreamt of visiting Albania. Its pristine beaches, beautiful cities and unique food would have remained a mystery to all but the most adventurous traveller as it remained in the clutches of one of the world’s most oppressive regimes. Luckily, that regime fell in the 90’s and the country is now rapidly catching up, establishing itself as one of Europe’s prettiest and fastest growing tourist destinations.
Please note that these are all my personal recommendations and are not sponsored in any way.
Getting There
The only major international airport in Albania is in the capital, Tirana. From here, budget airlines operate flights across Europe and can be extremely cheap indeed outside the peak summer season. The two largest budget carriers are Wizz Air and Ryanair. Just recently, Air Transat have also announced a direct, seasonal connection to Toronto, currently the only flight across the Atlantic.
Many people will likely access Albania by land or sea. There are passable border checkpoints with Montenegro, Kosovo, North Macedonia and Greece. There are also ferry connections to Corfu (Greece) and Italy.
UK nationals can visit Albania for up to 90 days within a 180 day period without a visa. Further information on this can be found on the FCDO website. US citizens can also travel visa-free, with more information here.
Major Destinations
Major tourist destinations within Albania include:
- Tirana – the capital and modern heart of Albania
- The Riviera – the coast, crammed with pictureque beaches and bars
- Berat – a historic Ottoman-style city not far from Tirana
- Gjirokastër – similar to Berat but larger in size, near the Greek border
- Shkodër – a northern town and hub for hiking
Getting Around
Transport in Albania has yet to truly catch up with the influx of tourism that the country is currently experiencing. There are trains but they don’t go anywhere useful, run irregularly and are in terrible condition. Don’t bother.
The majority of people move around the country using fargons. These are privately-owned minibuses which operate informally and depart their location often when they are full, rather than following a set timetable. When you get to a city or town, you’re best off asking your accommodation about how to get to your next destination and then follow their instructions. Prepare to be flexible in your approach.
Some international buses are bookable. Bus Bud charges a fairly hefty commission but will list most of these services, mainly departing from Tirana.
Some people choose to rent a car to get around. This is great for accessing beaches or trailheads away from the crowds. Beware, though, that Albanian driving standards are low across the country so you may easily find yourself in a sticky situation with your rental. Despite this, Western companies such as Europcar operate in the country.
The largest ride-hailing app in Albania is Patoko. This is an Albanian provider as none of the standard Western companies are allowed to operate in the country.
Albania is a tiny country and there is no need to fly internally to get around.
Accommodation
There are some excellent and cheap options when it comes to hostels in Albania. For example, Blue Door Hostel in Tirana or Berat Backpackers in Berat are particularly good. You will likely be paying less than £15 a night as well.
As ever, hotel accommodation varies widely. Boutique hotel rooms ae available for around £50 per night in Tirana but if you want to stay in something larger and fancier, you could end up spending in excess of £250 per night.
Money
The currency in Albania is the Lek. This is a closed currency and so isn’t generally available outside of the country. Instead, you’ll have to use an ATM to withdraw when you get there. The economy is largely cash-based so you’ll need to.
ATMs in Albania can charge extortionate fees for foreigners to withdraw cash. Most charge at least 500 Lek for a transaction (£4.50) so you’re best off making a small number of large withdrawals. Some may charge more and there isn’t a bank which will allow commission free withdrawals. Patoko have written a guide listing approximate withdrawal fees for Tirana here.
Other Points
Albania may be a Muslim country but is generally very liberal when it comes to standards of dress. Women are free to wear anything which would be considered acceptable in Western Europe. Public beaches are also used by men and women alike without an issue.
The Albanian Riviera is the reason why many tourists visit the country. This is a series of beautiful beaches running the length of the coast. However, it can get extremely busy at points during the peak summer season. If you want to go to the most popular spots like Ksamil, consider visiting during a shoulder season (either side of summer) or even the off season. It’ll still be warm enough to enjoy. Otherwise, consider less explored places. Himara may not boast the islands of Ksamil but still has some excellent beaches.
Albanian food is reasonably unique within Europe. Somewhere between Turkish, Greek and Italian, expect lamb and rice in baked yogurt (tavë kosi), liver in pepper and cheese sauce (fërgese) or filo pie (burek). It may not sound it, but it’s all delicious once you give it a try. A particularly good (and vibrant) place to do so in Tirana can be found here.
Finally, make sure you learn something about Albania’s fascinating recent history. This was once one of the most isolated countries on Earth – a European North Korea. Led by Enver Hoxha, the brutal realities of the past are best demonstrated in Tirana’s House of Leaves and Bunk’Art (1 or 2).
Into The Elsewhere 