Almost as hard to travel around as it is to spell, this is a country for the most intrepid of travellers. However, those that do make the journey will be richly rewarded with some of the friendliest people and most beautiful mountains on the planet. What Kyrgyzstan lacks in mod-cons it more than makes up for in sheer beauty and kindling a sense of real adventure in those who step into its wilds.
Please note that these are all my personal recommendations and are not sponsored in any way.
Getting There
There are two international airports in Kyrgyzstan: Bishkek and Osh. Both are served from Istanbul (with Turkish Airlines flying to Bishkek and Pegasus serving Osh). Bishkek also has a connection to Prague with SCAT Airlines. Otherwise, connections are difficult to come by if you’re intent on flying directly into Kyrgyzstan. No airline flies direct to the USA.
Instead, many travellers cross into the country by land using buses, either from Kazakhstan, Uzbekistan, Tajikistan (via the Pamir Highway) or even China. The nearest cities to Kyrgyz border crossings that also have larger international airports are Almaty and Tashkent.
At the time of writing, UK nationals can visit Kyrgyzstan for up to 30 days in a 60 day period without a visa. Further details can be found on the FCDO website. The same is true of US citizens, with more information available here.
Major Destinations
Major tourist destinations within Kyrgyzstan include:
- Bishkek – the capital and useful staging post for the country’s north
- Osh – a lively city on the Uzbek border centred around a holy mountain
- Karakol – end-of-the-world town and hiking hotspot
- Tian Shan Mountains – spanning the country and untouched by tourists
- Song-Köl Lake – horse trekking central, with chances to stay in yurts
Getting Around
This is probably the hardest aspect of travel in Kyrgyzstan. Yes, there are trains and, yes, they are much slower and more unreliable than a car or bus. In a lot of cases you would be better off walking.
A better alternative may be using the vast network of marshrutkas which cross the country every day. These are totally informal, vary greatly in quality and depart when full. Expect to pay the driver and try and get to them early in the morning – few run past midday except on the busiest routes.
The issue is that Kyrgyzstan is one of the world’s most mountainous countries which can make travel by marshrutka painfully slow and unbelievably long-winded, especially when crossing the country from north to south. That said, its still better than flying as mentioned below.
Yandex Go operate ride hailing services in major Kyrgyz cities. The only alternative to this (besides local taxis) is inner city marshrutkas, which tend to have where they are going to written on their side.
Taking internal flights in Kyrgyzstan may be tempting. For example, the journey from Bishkek to Osh is around 13 hours by road but less than an hour by plane. However, all Kyrgyz airlines are blacklisted in the UK because they all fail to meet UK (and EU) safety standards. Take them at your own risk.
Accommodation
There are some fairly decent if basic hostels and guesthouses in Kyrgyzstan. Good examples include these in Osh or Bishkek. In general, a night’s stay won’t cost much more than £10 in a major city. This may rise to £15 somewhere more off the beaten track.
As ever, hotels vary in price. Budget options in larger cities start at around £20 a night and then rise to £70 a night at the most expensive end. The relatively low prices are due to the scarcity of Western chains in the country. The only exception to this rule is in Bishkek, where the most expensive (Western-branded) rooms reach about £200 a night.
Money
The currency in Kyrgyzstan is the som (not to be confused with the currency of the same name in Uzbekistan). Though it isn’t technically a closed currency, you’ll struggle to find any at currency exchanges in the West, likely leaving you to withdraw when you arrive. This will be required as card payments are largely impossible.
Most Kyrgyz ATMs will charge you to withdraw cash, with the only possible exception being Companion Bank. It is also advisable to take some US dollars with you just in case.
Other Points
The main reason to go to Kyrgystan is for the mountains. Whether you choose to experience these on foot, by horse or by cycling, it will be equally tough and rewarding in equal measure. GPX routes for hiking can be found on various websites online – download one of these and save it to maps.me so you can be sure you stay on the right path.
Karakol is an excellent jumping off point for hiking, with the Altyn Arashan route particularly popular. For horse trekking, Song-Köl lake is the main area. The northern end of the Pamir Highway also stretches into the country from Tajikistan – this is an increasingly well-trodden but tough route for bike packing.
However, you’re probably best to think of your own adventures. The more off the beaten track you can get, the more rewarding your experience will be. Just make sure that you have the correct kit. If you don’t, Red Fox in Bishkek stocks some decent Western outdoor kit.
Into The Elsewhere 