23rd August 2026
Dushanbe is a very strange city. Its full of massive tower blocks, most of which are under construction still.
The real shame is that to build these “modern” blocks, they’re knocking down all the actually nice architecture and, with it, anything which made the city unique.
The blocks look like they’re 30 years old already too. They’re brand new.
I’ve also not had a huge amount to do. A walking tour (government sanctioned, naturally) fell through this morning so I just went for a wander. In the end I started taking photos of some of the more outrageous government organisation names.
One personal favourites the Committee on Religion and Regulation of Celebration and Ceremonies under the Government of the Republic of Tajikistan. Catchy.
There are also pictures of the President everywhere. Its like a Sacha Baron Cohen wet dream, combining Borat and the Dictator. To an outsider, its just weird.
The day has also lurched through the odd mild panic yet again. Fist is the idea of the shared taxi to Khorog tomorrow morning.
I’m going to have to go it alone for that one, having been to a hostel (which I should have stayed at – it was better than mine) to try and see if there was anyone there. Sadly after one brief and fruitless WhatsApp conversation, having left my phone number on a noticeboard, I’ve got nothing.
The second is cash. Turns out I should have brought a lot more than the $100 that I have as there is no way to change Tajik somoni to Kyrgyz som once I cross that border. I’m now totally reliant on a single, unreliable ATM in Sary Tash.
Still managed to withdraw great bundles of notes from the ATMs here though. I’m just hoping that’ll be enough for the car to Khorog and all accommodation and food.
Surely the equivalent of $60 a day will work?
Anyway, I’ll be glad to see the back of Dushanbe, as its not a very nice city. Certainly not since its been rebuilt.
It does however have good food. I tried my first kilo today which was decent.
I then ended up going for a Georgian meal with someone who was also somehow on my flight. Turns out both our partners didn’t fancy the trip between them.
Can’t imagine why…
The final stat of the day is I got through three bottles of peach ice tea. Though I suspect it won’t, long may that continue.
