25th August 2026
Have I ever had a tougher day while on “holiday”? I’m not sure.
To put this into context, Khorog is a touch over 2000 metres. I’m writing this at a touch under 3500 metres. My bike computer is saying that was 2000 metres of climbing once you factor in some descent.
Other vital statistics include 128 kilometres ridden, a sackful of dust inhaled from lorries going to and from China and some slightly dented pride. I did it in about seven hours’ riding (excluding rests) but now I’m absolutely knackered.
Still, there are upsides. This is a stunning place for one. I’m writing from a homestay in Jelondy, a village well-known for hot springs.
That’s upside number two; though the shower stank of sulphur (if you’ve been to Iceland you’ll know), it was absolute bliss. Washing off all the sweat and dirt in a really hot shower directly connected to the springs is just unbeatable.
I’ve also broken the back of the climbing. Tomorrow will be easier at 80 kilometres and “just” 1000 metres ascent to Alichur. The day after looks even better at less than 500 metres ascent to Murghab.
Anyway, what about today?
It started well getting a last couple of bits in Khorog. The I set off.
The bike was good apart from a bit of a squeak at the front axle which I need to look at tonight.
Climbing was initially a bit steep in patches but the road was largely good and I was feeling alright.
Cycling through the villages was fun with all the children waving and shouting hello. Even managed to give some high fives as much as that was slightly perilous and testing my abilities to just narrowly miss a small Tajik child on the road.
Beyond about 70 kilometres though the road began to deteriorate. There was quite a bit of concentration required not to hit a rim-breaking pothole. The ascent also kept coming.
This made for a slight demoralising situation and I was pretty fed up at 100 kilometres, knowing I still had a not insignificant 30 still to ride.
I just about managed to get through to a homestay that I found by complete chance in Jelondy. I must have looked terrible walking in.
After about 110 of those kilometres I also realised that one side of me was quite badly sunburnt (which I can’t do anything about now apart from put more cream on) and the dust and sweat were all over me.
At least I got to a bed and am about to eat.
This place feels like its at the end of the world though. There is no internet, the lights are flickering ominously and there is absolutely nothing else around.
There are also balloons and streamers all around my room from the homestay owners’ daughter’s wedding which apparently happened yesterday. This all just makes it feel a bit surreal.
To be honest, that’s what I came for (wedding aside) so no complaints there. But, yes, it does feel unbelievably remote – so remote I don’t know where water for tomorrow is coming from. Certainly, there’s no shop selling bottles.
Having said all that, I did hear someone playing a Billie Eilish and Khalid track earlier.
Maybe not quite so remote…
