Uzbekistan is famous for its Silk Road cities, Samarkand, Bukhara and Khiva. Tashkent, the country’s capital, is nothing like them – instead this is a modern city, complete with its own unique atmosphere, attractions and some of the best food in Central Asia. It is often overlooked but is still worth a stop and explore.
Please note that these are all my personal recommendations and are not sponsored in any way.
Getting There
The only airport worth talking about is Tashkent International Airport, on the outskirts of the Uzbek capital. From here, Uzbekistan Airways operate flights to the UK (Heathrow and Gatwick) and as far afield as New York JFK. Qanot Sharq are another, smaller operator who now fly direct to the UK.
Another major operator to Tashkent (and the rest of the country) is Turkish Airlines. All these flights are via Istanbul.
This is a part of the world where many travel overland rather than by air. If this takes your fancy, international trains run between Tashkent and Almaty (Kazakhstan) or Dushanbe (Tajikistan) and are a decent way to get around. Booking in advance is advised. Buses also run but the journey is long and uncomfortable.
The website to book trains to Kazakhstan can be found here. Information for trains to Tajikistan is here, though the link to book online wasn’t working at the time of writing.
To get a train to or from Tashkent to elsewhere in Uzbekistan, the train is inevitably your best bet. Tickets can be booked online in advance here (booking in advance is advised as some routes can sell out).
At the time of writing, UK nationals can visit Uzbekistan for up to 30 days without a visa. Full entry requirements can be found on the FCDO website. US nationals will need an e-visa, which can be applied for through the government portal. Full advice for US nationals can be found here.
City Highlights
The highlights of Tashkent include:
- Chorsu Bazaar – probably the country’s largest bazaar; get lost in the stalls
- The Metro – exploring the incredibly ornate stations harking back to the USSR
- Museums – about every aspect of Uzbekistan, from Olympic glory to trains
- Food – eating plov at streetside restaurants or shaslik at the bazaar
- Kokadash Madrasa – an oasis of calm in the city in Chorsu
Getting Around
Tashkent is home to an extremely good metro system which covers large portions of the city. More recently, card payments have started to be accepted at the ticket gates and the Soviet stations, often devoted to specific themes such as space, are an attraction in themselves. A map can be found here.
If the metro somehow doesn’t work for you, there are buses which serve the city. These can also be paid for by card on the bus.
The best taxi app in Tashkent is Yandex Go, which make getting anywhere extremely cheap and quite simple as long as you have an internet connnection. Indeed, this is the best way to get from the airport into the city or to and from Tashkent South Station, which isn’t connected to the metro unlike the larger main station.
Accommodation
The best hostel in Tashkent is Art Hostel. Surrounding a large courtyard, this is a social place and the jumping off point for a lot of people on their adventures through Uzbekistan. They also have a free breakfast. Expect to pay around £10 per night in a dormitory.
There are also loads of hotels throughout Tashkent, though by far the most famous is Hotel Uzbekistan, a brutalist block next door to the Statue of Amir Timur in the city centre. It may not be the best but is certainly the most iconic and a stay costs £40 per night.
Money
The currency in Uzbekistan is the som. This isn’t available outside of the region and so you’ll need to pick some up when you arrive. Fortunately, there are ATMs in all major towns and cities, though these will all charge a fee to withdraw. As such, larger withdrawals may be advisable.
Bringing US dollars with you is also highly advisable. These can be used for larger transactions and are readily accepted, while also serving as a useful back up.
Finally, don’t expect to be able to use your card anywhere apart from the poshest and most Westernised hotels or the metro.
Other Points
If you want more information on Tashkent or anywhere in Central Asia, Caravanistan is the best website around (apart from Into The Elsewhere of course…) for exploring the region. It has forums on issues and all information is kept up-to-date.
Uzbekistan is a Muslim country, though is very relaxed in Tashkent in particular around standards of dress. That said, you will be required to cover up when visiting religious buildings, regardless of sex. Shorts and sleeveless tops, though fine around the rest of the city, will need to be covered with scarves usually provided at the entrance of any building requiring it.
Uzbek food is criminally underappreciated in the West. Must try dishes include plov (the national dish of mutton with rice), lagman (meat noddle soup), manty (meat dumplings), somsa (meat pastries) and shashlik (meat kebabs). All of these are usually combined with fresh bread and cucumber, onion and tomato salad. Its a vegetarian’s worst nightmare but, if you like meat, it can be exceptionally good. The best places for food are around Chorsu Bazaar or at National Food.
Tashkent is also one of the few places in Central Asia which has any form of nightlife to speak of. Though there ae many places to go, Steam Bar and Bla Bla Bar seem to be the main ones.
Finally, be aware that it can become unbearably hot in the summer (particularly around July and August). With temperatures in excess of 40oC (104oF), consider going to Uzbekistan sometime either side of the hottest months. If you visit during winter, pack a very warm coat and some snow boots.
