This is the city which will destroy all illusions you may have of Kazakhstan. The stereotypes, mainly portrayed in the Borat films, are nowhere to be seen. Instead expect a multitude of restaurants, cultural attractions and (if you visit in winter) the possibility of skiing. In short, this is a modern, cosmopolitan city and a must-visit destination in Central Asia.
Please note that these are all my personal recommendations and are not sponsored in any way.
Getting There
Almaty is home to a major airport with connections to cities across Kazakhstan, Europe and Asia. The main operator from the hub is the Kazakh national carrier, Air Astana, who have regular flights to London Heathrow, Frankfurt and Istanbul.
Otherwise, many of the usual suspects reach the airport, including Lufthansa, Turkish Airlines or LOT. There are no direct flights to the USA.
Many people will also get there by land from places such as Uzbekistan or Kyrgyzstan. This is cheaper but significantly less comfortable and slower. Trains to Tashkent can be booked online. These tend to run overnight and are better than the buses, which really won’t offer a good night’s sleep on the 24 hour drive from Uzbekistan.
At the time of writing, UK nationals could visit Kazakhstan for up to 30 days at a time without a visa. More information, including on re-entry, can be found on the FCDO website. The same system also applies to US nationals, with more information here.
City Highlights
The highlights of Almaty include:
- Acension Cathedral – wonderfully colourful and ornate in the city centre
- Botanical Gardens – an expansive park, great for chilling out
- Big Almaty Lake – an crystal blue lake out of town
- Medeu/Shymbulak – Almaty’s mountain resort for skiing and hiking
- Arashan Baths – the perfect place for a Kazakh spa treatment
Getting Around
Almaty has a single metro line running through the city centre. A map for this can be found here. Perhaps more usefully, it has a network of buses which run across the city including to Medeu (number 12) and the airport (number 92 during daytime and number 3 at night). Unlike in other cities in the region, these buses are formal, have set stops and aren’t just run by a bloke who owns a minibus.
The main players on the ride hailing front in Almaty are Yandex Go and Uber. However, this is not the same Uber app that you’ll likely have at home – instead you’ll need to download Uber KZ.
Accommodation
For those looking for a hostel bed, Almaty Backpackers will be a comfortable if no-frills place to stay. This is the longest serving of all Almaty hostels though may well be in danger of being overtaken by newer competitors. In general, expect to pay no more than £10 a night for a dorm bed.
As a major and often Western-feeling city, hotels will fit a range of budgets in Almaty. On the one hand, it is possible to get a room for around £15 a night. However, if you’re insisting on staying in a place run by a Western chain, expect to pay well in excess of £200 a night.
Money
The tenge is the currency of Kazakhstan. Though cash is essential elsewhere in Kazakhstan, Almaty is in the process of undergoing something of a transition to card payments. Still, expect there to be soe places which will be cash only.
Cash is readily available at ATMs across the city. By and large, these do not charge commission as it stands.
Other Points
Almaty has excellent options when it comes to food, both for international and Kazakh restaurants. For local food, head to Kishlak and try their horse beshbarmak (a Kazakh speciality usually eaten at celebrations). Otherwise, the Georgian food at Daredzhani is excellent.
If you’re visiting the botanical gardens (and it is worth doing if you have a few days in the city) be aware that you will need to pay to enter. Though this is distinctly unusual, it helps keep them looking as good as they do.
A visit to the Arashan Baths is one of the most fun things to do in the city and a great way to unwind from the city outside. Be aware that the baths are gender-segregated. The best way to go is to just get the standard package without a message or anything additional – these can be added later on if you change your mind.
Into The Elsewhere 