Until very recently, you wouldn’t have dreamt of going to Tirana. Affected almost beyond imagination by the leadership of Enver Hoxha and then years of poverty after his daeth, Tirana was a place of suspicion, paranoia and (latterly) crime. Now, though, its one of the best places in the whole of Europe for a budget city break.
Please note that these are all my personal recommendations and are not sponsored in any way.
Getting There
Tirana’s airport is a hub for European budget airlines. All of Wizz Air, Ryanair and easyJet fly there (though easyJet only have a light presence) and, especially in the off season away from summer, offer some very reasonable fares.
On the more expensive side, British Airways also operate from London Heathrow and there are connections with Air France (from Paris) and Iberia (from Madrid). Further afield, there are flights to Toronto with Air Transat or Dubai with flydubai.
Many will also travel to Tirana by land or sea. By land, the international bus station connects to Montenegro, North Macedonia, Greece or Kosovo. Tickets can be booked via Busbud (note that domestic buses are far less formal and largely can’t be booked in advance).
By sea, Durrës (a coastal city close to Tirana) has connections to Bari and Brindisi in Italy. These can be booked through Direct Ferries as there are several operators.
UK nationals can visit Albania for up to 90 days out of 180 without a visa at the time of writing. Further advice can be found on the FCDO website. The same is true for US citizens.
City Highlights
The highlights of Tirana include:
- Skanderbeg Square – the enormous square at the centre of the city
- Bunk’Art – two former bunkers turned into museums
- The House of Leaves – the former secret police HQ, now a museum
- Cafés and bars – experience the city’s vibrant side after a day’s sightseeing
Getting Around
Tirana has a few bus routes which can be useful for travelling large distances to the airport or one of the many bus stations. For the airport, there are regular connections on the Rinas Express to Skanderbeg Square, costing 300 Leke.
Otherwise, the numbers 2 and 8 go all the way to the TEG shopping centre (for the international bus terminal). Domestic buses, including to and from Durrës, depart from the North and South terminal – this can be reached from the city centre by buses number 4, 5B or 13B.
In general, Albania is pretty averse to Western brands. This is why neither Uber nor Bolt operate in the city. If you need a ride hailing app, Patoko is your best bet.
Accommodation
Tirana is a cheap city to visit and accommodation is no exception budget-wise. An excellent budget option is Blue Door Hostel at around £20 per night in a dormitory. However, bear in mind that prices may be dramatically lower than this during the off season.
If you fancy staying in a plae with a touch more historical significance, the Tirana International Hotel may be a good shout. During the days the country spent shut away from the outside world, this was the only place international visitors could stay (in heavily bugged rooms). Prices are around £80 a night and the bugs have been removed.
Money
The currency in Albania is the Lek. This is a closed currency and so isn’t generally available outside of the country. Instead, you’ll have to use an ATM to withdraw when you get there. The economy is largely cash-based so you’ll need to.
ATMs in Albania can charge extortionate fees for foreigners to withdraw cash. Most charge at least 500 Lek for a transaction (£4.50) so you’re best off making a small number of large withdrawals. Some may charge more and there isn’t a bank which will allow commission free withdrawals. Patoko have written a guide listing approximate withdrawal fees for Tirana here.
Other Points
One of the best ways to understand Tirana is through a walking tour. Many of these can be found through GuruWalk and they typically meet in the mornings at Skanderbeg Square. They’re typically free though expect to tip in cash at the end.
Albanian food is reasonably unique within Europe. Somewhere between Turkish, Greek and Italian, expect lamb and rice in baked yogurt (tavë kosi), liver in pepper and cheese sauce (fërgese) or filo pie (burek). It may not sound it, but it’s all delicious once you give it a try. A particularly good (and vibrant) place to do so in Tirana can be found here.
Tirana is also home to many excellent bars. Many fo these are found to the south of Skanderbeg Square, with Radio Bar being the pick of the bunch if you fancy a quirky cocktail.
Finally, make sure you learn something about Albania’s fascinating recent history. This was once one of the most isolated countries on Earth – a European North Korea. Led by Enver Hoxha, the brutal realities of the past are best demonstrated in Tirana’s House of Leaves and Bunk’Art (1 or 2).
Into The Elsewhere 